Sustainable Communication vs. Greenwashing: What Changes with the 2026 European Directive

The term greenwashing describes marketing practices that present products or organizations as eco-sustainable without a verifiable basis. The technical definition, adopted by the Italian Consumer Code, identifies greenwashing as any unfair commercial practice that uses generic environmental assertions, unsupported by scientific data or recognized certifications.

Two factors have fueled the proliferation of environmental claims:

• The consumer shift toward more sustainable consumption models.
• Growing sensitivity toward climate change.

The Sustainability Sector Index by Kantar (2024) highlights that over half of consumers believe companies spread misleading or false information about their sustainability. Consequently, a significant gap is created between perceived credibility and effective communication.

A 2020 European Commission investigation analyzed the websites of European companies. The results are alarming: in 59% of cases, the information was insufficient to evaluate the declared sustainability. 37% of the claims used overly generic formulations. Finally, 42% of the statements were deemed deceptive.

It is in this context that greenwashing is positioned, literally meaning “washing in green”: a deceptive marketing strategy. Some companies use it to build a positive environmental image that does not correspond to reality. In the textile sector, the goal is to present entire collections as eco-sustainable, diverting attention from negative impacts.

A green claim is defined as a message that declares or suggests a positive, neutral, or reduced environmental impact compared to the competition. In the textile and manufacturing sectors, this communication can be textual, visual, or symbolic.

The difference between a legitimate green claim and greenwashing lies in the scientific verifiability of the statements. According to Article 12 of the Code of Marketing Communication Self-Regulation (AGCM, 2014), commercial communication that declares or evokes environmental or ecological benefits must be based on truthful, pertinent, and scientifically verifiable data.

 

Key prohibitions include:

1. Generic environmental assertions: Expressions such as “environmentally friendly,” “green,” “sustainable,” “climate friendly,” or “eco-friendly” are prohibited without recognized proof of environmental excellence.
2. Undemonstrable future commitments: Statements regarding future environmental performance (e.g., “zero emissions by 2030”) require concrete implementation plans, measurable objectives, defined deadlines, and periodic verification by an independent third party.
3. Uncertified sustainability labels: The use of labels, logos, or stickers evoking sustainability is prohibited unless they are based on recognized certification systems or established by public authorities.
4. Partial claims presented as global: It is forbidden to extend the sustainability characteristics of a single component or production phase to the entire product or organization.
5. Emission offsetting as the sole basis: Declarations of climate neutrality or zero impact cannot be based exclusively on offsetting mechanisms (carbon credit compensation). They require evidence of direct emission reduction according to recognized standards, such as the Science Based Targets initiative or the GHG Protocol.

To understand the real dangers of non-transparent communication, it is useful to examine some examples of greenwashing within the sustainable clothing sector. An emblematic case study is that of Shein, a fast fashion giant. The company has recently faced harsh criticism for the discrepancies between its sustainability promises and its production reality.

According to a Greenpeace investigation conducted in 2025, Shein‘s safety measures proved to be ineffective. The company had announced investments of over 15 million dollars that same year to strengthen documentation systems and chemical control. However, tests revealed that the products still contain a large amount of hazardous chemical components.

The Shein case highlights the failure of self-regulation and underscores the urgency of a binding Greenwashing Directive. Such legislation must prevent fast fashion brands from evading current regulations at the expense of public health.

Sustainable communication distinguishes itself from greenwashing through methodological rigor and data verifiability. According to current regulations, every environmental assertion must be supported by:

• Objective and measurable data
• Recognized methodologies
• Independent third-party verification
• Clearly defined scope of application (specific product, production line, or the organization as a whole)

Supply chain transparency and documentary traceability are essential elements. Communication must not be limited to claiming results; it must also explain technical limits and open challenges, anticipating the requirements of Directive 2024/825.

Since 2016, Consorzio Detox has been promoting standards of transparency, traceability, and responsibility along the textile supply chain, developing support tools for member companies to manage green claims in compliance with the regulations.